Akris
PARIS, October 7, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
The precision with which Albert Kriemler cuts his clothesto say nothing of the efficiency of his presentationcame as a welcome tonic amid spring's endless frills (the ruffles! the bows! the lace!) and elaborate setups. Backstage, Kriemler described the starting point of his collection as a nude plissé blouse worn by Anjelica Huston in a 1973 Richard Avedon portrait. "It was its simplicity and lightness," he said, "that moved me."Kriemler did a deft job of charting the season's trends, too, starting with those pleats and continuing with subtle colors including aubergine, mushroom, and smoke. These came together beautifully in a nude (the noncolor of the season), accordion-folded frock with a deep V-back. Embellishments included tulle leaves hand-stitched onto organza; perforated-leather swing coats looked lighter than air; and crocheted cardigans had enough heft to stand in for a blazer.
But Akris is really all about those dependably chic pantsuits. To persuade customers who already have a closetful of his short jackets, and perhaps convince new (younger?) ones, Kriemler lengthened his spring styles to the hips, cinched them with a belt, and raised armholes for a look he described as "rock starbut Akris rock star."
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo




















