The precision with which Albert Kriemler cuts his clothes—to say nothing of the efficiency of his presentation—came as a welcome tonic amid spring's endless frills (the ruffles! the bows! the lace!) and elaborate setups. Backstage, Kriemler described the starting point of his collection as a nude plissé blouse worn by Anjelica Huston in a 1973 Richard Avedon portrait. "It was its simplicity and lightness," he said, "that moved me."

Kriemler did a deft job of charting the season's trends, too, starting with those pleats and continuing with subtle colors including aubergine, mushroom, and smoke. These came together beautifully in a nude (the noncolor of the season), accordion-folded frock with a deep V-back. Embellishments included tulle leaves hand-stitched onto organza; perforated-leather swing coats looked lighter than air; and crocheted cardigans had enough heft to stand in for a blazer.

But Akris is really all about those dependably chic pantsuits. To persuade customers who already have a closetful of his short jackets, and perhaps convince new (younger?) ones, Kriemler lengthened his spring styles to the hips, cinched them with a belt, and raised armholes for a look he described as "rock star—but Akris rock star."