As Four
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 9, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
Minus Kai Kühne, it was business as usual for the remaining three members of As Four—Adi, Ange, and Gabi—who presented their spring 2006 collection in their "renegade" store on Broadway. Music came courtesy of Sean Lennon on baby grand, accompanied by a band called Meta Four, which performance artist Michael Portney formed specifically for the occasion.The collection visited familiar territory, with one significant difference: It was rendered almost completely in denim. Pleat details on pants had an accordion-like, almost industrial feel. One pair of trousers with sheer inserts in the shape of lighting bolts at the back of the leg was more than a little bit rock 'n' roll. Drapey tops in inky-blue silk georgette, embellished with sequins and metallic laces, were among the highlights. There were lots of evening dresses on offer, the most dramatic being a floor-length piece with sheer inserts and gypsylike medallions that made their own folky music as the model walked.
Though this was a well-edited collection that showed the trio in good form, the most-exciting news was not about what was on the runway. For its new "black line," available in the store, the team has recreated its greatest hits, again in denim. Free of bells and whistles, these pieces allow the strength of the team's patternmaking to come through loud and clear.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
