Bill Blass
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 13, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
"There's a lack of communication between you and me," blasted the disco soundtrack at Bill Blass, and perhaps it was a more prescient statement than intended. This disconnect has been a persistent problem for the past few seasons, and creative director Michael Vollbracht has struggled to find a balance between revisiting the rich Blass legacy and establishing his own identity. For spring, Vollbracht took a few forward steps, showing a retail-ready collection of fine proportions (neat bodices over fuller skirts) that was young and fresh, but not so much so as to alienate his more mature customers. What was off-putting were the cutesy runway antics of three blond models who vamped shamelessly for the cameras before swaying back down the catwalk hand-in-hand in Bardot-evoking gingham dresses. It's doubtful that Mr. Blass would have approved.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
