Badgley Mischka
NEW YORK, September 14, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
Though the black-windowed vans with flashing lights and Maryland plates on 11th Avenue were a reminder of pressing world events and the week's affairs at the United Nations, the prevailing mood at the Badgley Mischka show at the Waterfront (formerly the Tunnel) was one of escapist celebration. The duo has returned to the runway with a new backer Iconix (formerly Candie's) after a two-season hiatus.The chandeliers dripping with ferns and orchids, and the perfectly coiffed socialites dotting the front row, made the atmosphere feel like a society wedding reception, which suits the designers' aesthetic just fine. There were plenty of mother-of-the-bride dresses to choose from, and, thankfully, the mounds of beading from prior collections gave way to refreshing tiers of lace and tulle, lush satin and chiffon. A real effort was directed at daywear, and the result was conservatively chic tweed dresses and jackets, sweater sets, and beaded tanks. A black jacket layered over a long tank worn with shorts was surprisingly trendy. The unexpected combination of crystal beading on sandy linen hopsack, which was also combined with tulle, produced several lovely cocktail dresses.
But Mark Badgley and James Mischka (who dressed Kate Winslet for this year's Oscars) are known for gowns, and these were still the focus of the show. An embellished bouquet-print satin-and-chiffon gown was a signature, but it was the dress on Caroline Trentini near the end that stood out for its utter simplicity. Made of black cotton and featuring a large rose corsage at the hip, its only drama came from a trapeze hem. Nothing shown here would shock loyalists. Theirs is a world that hovers at the edge of the fashion universe, where trends take a backseat to heavy-handed glamour.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
