Boudicca
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 16, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
"Please do not touch the artwork," read the signs lining the central installation of Brian Kirkby and Zowie Broach's Romantic Museum collection for Boudicca at Bumble and Bumble, which was a talcum-powdered runway. This bookish, London-based team is known for their austere and artful collections, but for their second outing in New York, they displayed a softer side. Military references are a signature of Boudicca, since the line is named after a warrior queen, but overall, the mood was lightened by airy eyelet and floral prints.To a clap of soundtrack thunder, Heather Marks opened the show in a black eyelet dress buckled under the bust and covered with tassels. A white glove caught in a harnessed epaulet hung over one shoulder. Body-constricting devices were limited to neck ruffs, wide obi belts, and a slender gold metal circle tied in a blue bow at the back of a waist. Laser-cut leathers kept company with intricately pieced eyelets. A digitally printed rose-pattern damask complemented a floral-print leather that was worked into a skirt and paired with a light-blue puff-sleeve blouse (a neat twist on Victoriana). A black palette was livened up with the layering of a grayish yellow, blue, and metallic ruby red.
Blame it on the sensitive assemblage artist Joseph Cornell, the designers' inspiration, but the mood was delicate: The finale pieces featured pleated skirts and falls that had a tutu quality. But separates like culottes and a chic pocket-front coat, even the perfect little black dress, were surprisingly accessible and, of course, chic.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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