Brian Reyes
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 9, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
Not every 24-year-old fledgling gets props from The New York Times prior to his runway debut. But then there's nothing average about Brian Reyes. He's a self-taught designer, who in a very short time has worked (in various roles) at Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, and Oscar de la Renta. His spring show, for which Eliza Reed Bolen grabbed a front-row seat, proved that the last of those three mentors informed his aesthetic the most. The evidence? A distinct "lady" attitude, and a three-dimensional rose-petal-embroidered skirt that had both sass and class."I wanted to tell a beautiful story, to show my love for my craft and my country," said Reyes, referring to his parents' homeland, Colombia. From delicate, braided straps on lace-trimmed camisole tops, to a caramel-color skirt constructed entirely of plaits, his love of the craft was apparent. Texture was also abundant, in the form of wood beading, raffia embroidery, silk burlap fabric, and a branch print. All of which tied in well with the safari theme, which was introduced in the second look: a khaki hacking dress. Reyes' clientele isn't likely to hunt for anything more endangered than a last-minute reservation at Per Se, though. He's designing for a woman with less-than-wild tastes. There were godet and pencil skirts for the uptown set, and deeply cuffed trousers and thirties-influenced crinkled-silk-chiffon blouses, paired with shrunken boleros of the same fabric and color (a new take on the twinset), for the occasional dalliance downtown.
With this collection, if Reyes didn't exactly explore new territory, he certainly aligned himself with a solid tradition. So is he worthy of the hype, and a promising newbie? In the words of Shakira, which blasted through the sound system, "claro, claro, claro."
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
