Costume National
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 4, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
Ennio Capasa cited the heroines of Michelangelo Antonioni's movies as influences for spring. But on the evidence of the clothes, he was thinking more early sixties La Notte than mid-decade Blow-up. The one exception was a navy Empire-line minidress, its neckline and straps trimmed in royal-blue crystals, which seemed tossed in at the last minute as a nod to fashion's new direction.Capasa was at his best when he focused on the waist, cinching it with wide raffia belts or showcasing it with a strictly corseted jacket. Slick tailoring is his strong suit; superfluous details like a row of buttons across the shoulder blades of a suede trench distracted from his collection's impact. And though embellishments like a jeweled shoulder clip or a bodice of swirling rhinestones gave his evening looks a luxe touch, the gowns would have looked just as sexy—and more modern—without them.
After a quiet beginning, the show finished with jarring colors like chartreuse, candy apple red, and kelly green that didn't jibe with the otherwise-subtle pleated and ruched cocktail dresses. Like Antonioni's films, the graphic designs that Capasa is known for are plenty powerful in black and white.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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