Costello Tagliapietra
NEW YORK, September 11, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
For spring, Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra produced a striking collection of their signature draped jersey dresses, which earned them a Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund nomination this year, and much more. The invitation to the show offered clues as to what was to come; it featured a blurred detail of Pre-Raphaelite painter J.W. Waterhouse's Psyche Entering Cupid's Garden, a soft yet confident assertion of femininity.With quiet assuredness, the duo introduced crinkled silks, crepes, and georgettes into their typically all-jersey world and showed a greater variety of separates. Shawl- and draped-collar jackets, some with contrasting Petersham ribbon trim, were paired with slim trousers with slot seams and pleated skirts. All of it was handled with their typical skill, but as welcome as these additions were, the dresses and gowns were still the standouts. Pale "watercolors," painterly shades of clay, beige, gray-green, bone, yellow, and lavender, unified the collection. Individual detailing was what set them apart, like shirring at the shoulder bone, a bow tied at the back, a keyhole slit, or a cinch. The gowns left as much of an impression going as they did coming, since each one had rich detail in the back. The most dramatic of the lot had ribbon straps that plunged into a V and met a petal of fabric at the waist.
What was most remarkable about the show was that it escaped both the Grecian undertones typically attached to draped jersey pieces and the overt references to Jean Muir or Madame Grès. Instead of floating like deities, the models swished by with the assurance of mortal goddesses in the twenty-first century.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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