Donna Karan switched gears for spring. The tiered peasant skirts are gone, the beading, too, has disappeared. Yes, there was some embellishment in the form of bows, but her DKNY collection—like her signature line—was mostly about volume and proportion play. What a fitting location, then, the large glass lobby of the Lever House turned out to be.

Skirts came tulip shaped, while Empire-line dresses—in wallpaper florals or the season's requisite eyelet, in silver here—flared out from high waists. Pleating, too, was a recurring motif; it looked especially sweet on a lemon-yellow chiffon frock, but white and black belted shirt versions will surely become a wardrobe staple. Speaking of which, a classic trench looked sturdy in a dark khaki, but decidedly not standard issue.