Before her show, Doo-Ri Chung promised to continue the tradition of hard edges and tailoring that she began with her collection for fall. Some especially successful examples of this were khaki cotton trenches, one with a stand-up collar and the other with a cascade of ruffles that descended to a belted waist. Pants in the same material were mostly of the wide-leg variety that's become popular this season, while skirts were knee length and pencil slim. Either would look great with the cognac cropped leather jacket that added a welcome dose of spice to the mostly nude- and blush-colored collection.

Chung built her name on architecturally draped jersey dresses, and she did just one for spring, embroidering the torso with an extravagant array of Swarovski crystals. But mostly, she traded in her flowing knits for silks and satins. Cocktail length or to the floor, they looked luxurious (and expensive), especially when they came with net overlays attached by swirls of rhinestones. But despite her best efforts, they just didn't have the same swing of her jersey numbers. Backstage, she said her gossamer creations brought to mind "pissed-off fairies." Apparently, they weren't angry enough, and it all could have benefited from a bit more attitude.