Dries Van Noten
PARIS, October 5, 2005
By Sarah Mower
Dries Van Noten shed a lovely sidelight on how to wear summer's crumply, crinkly, biscuity-beige duster coats, shorts, and loose dresses. By showing them with pale powdered faces, red lipstick, and high heels, he nicely circumnavigated the potential pitfalls of fabrics that, carelessly thrown on, can end up having all the mystique of potato sacks.Full marks for bringing a kind of gentle glamour to his opening passage, then. But Van Noten's ever-widening constituency is not in search of a punchily obvious trend. What pleases his followers is seeing him just keepin' on being Dries, season in, season out. That always involves some ethnic touches and lots of arts-and-crafts textures, made in shapes calculated to frame a personality rather than flash a hot bod. This collection serviced all those needs, with an excursion into Asian-influenced kimono fabrics, tie-dye, and flower prints, all sparked up for the season with some metallic brocades. The designer's obi-like wraps, bound around small jackets, might have signaled a nod to the current feeling for the cinched waist, but it was done entirely within his own frame of reference. And since Van Noten's fans are conscious avoiders of clothes that scream "fashion," this was a collection calculated to speak to his customers as successfully as ever.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
