Etro
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 30, 2005
By Hamish Bowles
Veronica Etro described her collection as "a journey of light and color." That meant exploring a century of painterly treatments, from the exquisitely realistic nineteenth-century Greco-Roman fantasias of Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema to the shimmering, abstract color blocks of Mark Rothko (prettily interpreted in skinny knits or hand-painted chiffon evening gowns).Etro built up slowly to the highly colored, multiprint effects that have lately become a signature of the house once famed for its autumnal paisley designs. The show opened with a natural linen coat, its hem massed with impasto embroidery that evoked Matisse cutouts. This was typical of the collection's artisanal hand detailing, which included rococo volutes of silvery sequins on a wispy chiffon skirt and jet-embroidered whorls garlanding skirts or coats. Only the accessories were simple and relatively unembellished—high, strappy suede sandals, and bucket bags and briefcases in natural or earthy red linen bordered and bound in black leather.
Those signature paisleys were subtly revisited—barely perceptible this time—in soft shades of pale yellow for a sunray-pleated evening dress. Meanwhile, the Romany gypsy-scarf prints allowed Etro to run riot with audacious color mixes such as purple, aqua, and cocoa, while a full-blown rose print on a thirties-inspired evening dress captured the season's passion for romantic florals.
Etro's eclectic vision also embraced the blues of the Mediterranean Sea, from soft aqua to ultramarine. And the sultry atmosphere that sea evokes was reinforced by evening gowns that suggested Alma-Tadema's ersatz Victorian take on the garb of ancient Greek and Roman lovelies.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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