Fashion Fringe
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 21, 2005
By Sarah Mower
In its second year, the Fashion Fringe competition, organized by veteran Sunday Times journalist Colin McDowell, garnered some serious entries. From hundreds of applicants, four (who had to present business plans as well as samples and sketches to qualify) made it to the runway.As the show began, it became immediately apparent that two collections would be slugging it out for the prize. Modernist, a new label by Andrew Jones and Abdul Koroma, had sophistication sewn into every seam of its all-blue, perfectly executed line, featuring powdery suede coats and jackets with pouchy pockets, a mean pair of pants, and a couple of drapey bubble skirts and dresses. Pretty impressive for a pair of newcomers—though not quite so astonishing once you know they met while working for MaxMara in Italy.
Erdem Moralioglu beat them, though. Showing last—always a bit of a giveaway in these circumstances—the Turkish-Canadian, who was educated at London's Royal College of Art, sent out a romantic collection of fan-pleated chiffon dresses and softly whimsical tailoring. Just guessing, but odds are it was the high-neck, sleeveless printed Edwardian dress, trailing a frilled lemon train that swung it for him.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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