September 20, 2005 London
As the show began, it became immediately apparent that two collections would be slugging it out for the prize. Modernist, a new label by Andrew Jones and Abdul Koroma, had sophistication sewn into every seam of its all-blue, perfectly executed line, featuring powdery suede coats and jackets with pouchy pockets, a mean pair of pants, and a couple of drapey bubble skirts and dresses. Pretty impressive for a pair of newcomersthough not quite so astonishing once you know they met while working for MaxMara in Italy.
Erdem Moralioglu beat them, though. Showing lastalways a bit of a giveaway in these circumstancesthe Turkish-Canadian, who was educated at London's Royal College of Art, sent out a romantic collection of fan-pleated chiffon dresses and softly whimsical tailoring. Just guessing, but odds are it was the high-neck, sleeveless printed Edwardian dress, trailing a frilled lemon train that swung it for him.