Hermès
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 8, 2005
By Sarah Mower
Jean Paul Gaultier has relaxed into his job at Hermès—in a great way. His spring collection, shorn of the nervous-tic horsey puns and heavy-handed homages to French conservative dressing he came in with, made complete sense. In fact, with his white shirtdresses, scarf-print pieces, nicely judged silk cardigans, and brilliant use of that deliciously classy house orange, he has finally cleared up the essential dilemma that has bedeviled the house since it first stepped into the clothing arena.To wit: Hermès is a sanctuary for sophisticated women who want quality and classicism—but who also don't want to look like also-rans in the trend stakes. For the first time, Gaultier mixed a perfect elixir of house symbolism and extract of fashion to pique the interest of that hard-to-get but high-spending class. He showed tall platform sandals to act as a foil to a fabulous three-piece white linen pantsuit, made Hermès scarves into pencil skirts and tunics, and turned out the most gorgeous plissé orange goddess dress. These clothes, while registering fashion, elegantly stepped clear of the pitfalls of too much trendiness. Top marks, JPG.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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