Jeremy Laing is a stealth entry to the spring season. Though his show, 19-looks strong, was not posted on the fashion calendar, he presented Sunday in the elegant, marble-floored Knoll showroom. It's the second time out for this 26-year-old Toronto native, who has worked with the London-based label Preen and with Alexander McQueen. Last fall, he showed a promising collection—assembled in just three weeks—at Lia Gangitano's Participant Inc. gallery. But spring found him solidly prepared and in an elegant mood.

Many of the clothes featured what he called a volant silhouette: winglike extensions of cloth that created a graphic line when viewed in profile, but beautifully framed the draped pieces when seen straight on. Dresses and skirts had full trapeze shapes. Pants were high-waisted and paired with coats, emphasizing a long line, while shorts were toped with vests and boleros. Fabrics ranged from airy parachute silks and luminous taffeta to more-substantial canvas and tie silk. The collection wasn't perfect, but it was a find, and Laing may well be ready for his own timeslot.