Waiting for Raf Simons—if not Godot—is the name of the game at Jil Sander. Doing its best to keep her minimalist leftovers warm, a nameless backroom team is designing the collection until the young Belgian appears, as promised, next season.

The result—no surprise—was tepid. For starters, the committee had boiled down the essence of Sander to a white shirt and a cream, asymmetric wrapover skirt, which, though unobjectionable in itself, couldn't help but look bland. Other pieces—cigarette pants and shirts appliquéd with graphic patches, a funnel-neck white linen coat, a wraparound strapless dress fastened with a traily ribbon, and a zip-front shorts suit—illustrated how badly the label needs a fresh, intellectual designer to justify its standing as a thinking-woman's luxury brand. By the time Simons arrives, he'll have to tackle the issue of whether nineties minimalism itself can be renovated. That's the challenge, but it's good to look forward to a time when, with a strong leader installed, this collection will have something more interesting to say.