Wunderkind
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 15, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
Wolfgang Joop is in some ways a prisoner of his name. The inspired Wunderkind collection Joop showed today in the tents deserved a fresh look, with an eye unbiased by the designer's first heyday, in the eighties and nineties. It was truly an exercise in sophisticated, highly accomplished design. Though Joop is no longer emerging, his collection is, with its progression in crescendo.That is not to say that it was perfect. It suffered from a surfeit of ideas and, in passionate, operatic moments of layered flou, edged into Stevie Nicks territory. The standout moments, like a white canvas pantsuit worn by Tiiu Kuik, compensated for the weaker links.
Post-show, the designer talked about his lasting attachment to the painters Jean-Antoine Watteau and Gustav Klimt and their "hunger for upper-class romance." The idea of appetite took interesting form in the collection, which picked up on the tablecloth theme making its way through New York fashion week. The finale dress of lace silk was cut like a circular table cover, Joop explained, though it's not obvious at first glance. And dimensional cuffs referenced eighteenth-century napkin-stuffed sleeves.
Table linens aside, menswear was also a strong theme worked into the show via striped shirtings, tie silks, baggy proportions, and fantastic pleat-front shirtdresses. It was the perfect antidote to romance, which was present everywhere, and a nice counterpoint to lace-front and embroidered Romanian-style blouses, as was an English-rose print worked into long dresses with intricate braiding insets. Wunderkind (with the awkward growing pains behind him), indeed.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
