Kenneth Cole New York
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 9, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
The consciousness-raising videos that precede every Kenneth Cole show are not known for their subtlety. And considering that the toll of Hurricane Katrina on the Gulf Coast is still being assessed, Cole had particularly potent material this season. While his recruits Whoopi Goldberg and the FVU (Fashion Victims Unit) laid the message on extra-thick, the designer's passion for helping survivors by donating to the Red Cross came through loud and clear.Just like his film, Cole's presentation could have done with a firm edit—fewer looks, at a faster pace, would have got his fashion message across more efficiently. He kicked things off with a great pair of full trousers, topped with a high waist and wide belt that reappeared on pencil skirts, knee-length pants, and blouson shorts. Elsewhere, he riffed on American classics: cropping a leather trench above the hips, adding a playful ruffle to a wrap dress, and cutting a jacket in a utilitarian paper-nylon material that shined like taffeta. No-frills jersey was pleated and smocked into tops as comfy as an old T-shirt, but still plenty chic. As for the crinkled-chiffon dresses worn with ballet flats that closed the show, they came in colors luscious enough to make his customers forget entirely about last season's triumphant return of basic, head-to-toe black.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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