Kenzo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 8, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
With cardboard waves, clouds, and seagulls as a backdrop and a boardwalk/runway elevated above acres of sand, Antonio Marras' spring Kenzo collection set off prettily from Brittany and docked in Provence. It wasn't all plain sailing, though, because along the way, there was an implausible stopover at Euro Disney, not to mention a quick tour of the children's nursery.Marras began then with a saucy nautical theme: Navy-and-white-striped clingy knits and tailored sailor suits came with matching berets. To finish, he sent out floor-length silhouettes: floral gowns with pink gingham accents, a crocheted suit, and a lacy pinafore dress that, topped with a straw hat, called to mind Little Bo Peep. Somewhere in the middle, a couple of polka-dot chiffon looks were accessorized with Minnie Mouse ears.
After their exits, the models made their way onto a cardboard ship waiting in the wings. When the last one swaggered aboard, wearing a man's tuxedo that made one think of the ill-fated couple in Marguerite Duras' novel The Lover, the foghorn bleated, and the boat came into view. Then, while confetti blew sideways from a wind machine, the girls disembarked for a final lap around the boardwalk. It made for good theater, though Marras might do well to remember that modern women are less interested in costumes than well-designed clothes. He had plenty of the latter, but a little less eccentricity would have gone a long way.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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