As the Lagerfeld Gallery show finally got under way after an even longer than usual delay (thank the Carrousel du Louvre's arduous security procedure), it looked like the designer was going to stick to riffs on his signature strict suiting—this time with white shirts trailing floor-grazing arm bands. But Lagerfeld did introduce a more feminine note to the proceedings, via jackets, vests, and sheaths with circular and teardrop-shape cutouts. For evening, he was of two minds: On the one hand, there was a beaded cocktail dress with spaghetti straps, and on the other, a chiffon gown that was sleeveless and sheer in parts—not necessarily practical, but not predictable either.

Lagerfeld sold this label to Tommy Hilfiger less than a year ago, with growing the business topmost in his mind. But if he's really thinking big, it would've been nice to see more of his fantastic—not to mention highly bankable—denim.