Marc by Marc Jacobs
NEW YORK, September 13, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
The marching band had packed up and headed back to Pennsylvania by the time Marc Jacobs' second collection, Marc by Marc Jacobs, hit the runway. But its musicians' exuberance would have been inappropriate anyway. Maybe a symphony would have been better, with so many ballerina-on-her-day-off looks speeding down the runway. Layering, of course, is a signature of this secondary line, and for spring, Jacobs topped unitards with everything from a parachute jacket to a floral-print silk dress.There were also arm-warmers, leggings, and stirrup pants, which, sadly, still aren't ripe for a comeback. Anyone in the audience old enough to remember wearing them the first time got a good laugh, at least.
As befits a dancer, he used soft, cozy materials like French terry, cotton sateen, voile, and summer twill, in a palette of mostly pastels with shots of black and navy, and precious few of his signature zany prints. Jacobs helped catapult the category of designer jeans, but the denim he showed Tuesday wasn't of the standard five-pocket variety. Instead, he cut it into baggy pants, flouncy dresses, and overalls with a retro vibe. Was that one-shoulder indigo jersey dress a Fame moment? Could be. But our vote for best revival goes to a less literal, more modern interpretation of that eighties classic, the cream terry tee with a scooped back.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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