MaxMara
MILAN, September 29, 2005
By Sarah Mower
There's a puzzling disconnect between MaxMara's stores—brightly lit havens of well thought-out, sanely presented wardrobe options—and what transpires at its runway shows. The dark and cavernous exhibition hall where this Milan fashion powerhouse persists in putting up its presentations is a bit of a mood dampener, first of all. And the show itself, teasing out its design conceits in many passages, tends to make audience concentration wilt beneath the repetitions.What MaxMara's design team decided on as seasonal innovations were big, striped sailor T-shirtdresses, a feeling for loose shapes, mannish styling, and a bit of eighties avant garde influence in the way of elasticized gatherings. What MaxMara does best for spring, though—that would be updates on burlap and linen safari-style pieces, camp shirts, summer trenches, and easy, wide pants with paper bag waists—was thankfully unchanged. Too bad, then, that those pieces had nothing to do with other distractions, like oversize jumpers styled like men's trousers, roomy playsuits, and primary-color silk hobble dresses. It's no slight to say that this highly regarded house could far better display its strengths in real, pragmatic dressing with a well-focused showroom presentation.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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