September 28, 2005
Roberto Menichetti's hobbyhorse is the marriage of high-tech materials to sportswear staples, and this season found him back in the well-worn saddle. He called the collection Essentialism, and his models, with their scrubbed faces and stark center parts, contributed to the minimalist feel, as did a palette of navy, khaki, and white, enlivened here and there by metallics. The classics worked best; the strict coats especially. Two camel numbers, one tied at the neck, another a topper with cuffed sleeves, stood out. So did the blue trench worn by Eva Riccobono. A gray dress enlivened with embroidered polka dots (or, in Menichetti parlance, "modules") was also interesting. But as "intelligent" as Menichetti's fabrics might be, they can seem stiff on the body. His exercises in design are always clever, but the emotional component is sometimes hard to locate.