October 02, 2005 Paris
Grant's dirndls, with their pin-tuck details, displayed a deft hand. But hip-skimming pencil skirts were more of-the-moment, and leather embellished with broderie anglaise had a welcome edge. The same could be said for cuffed linen-cotton shorts, which, when paired with smartly tailored sailor and pea jackets, evoked school uniforms. Grant cuts a gorgeous trench, as anyone who's followed his career from private dressmaker to ready-to-wear designer knows, and his oyster satin evening version looked like a dream. But Grant may need to take more risks, and incorporate some of the improvisational magic his musician muse Davis was known for, if he wants to reach similar creative heights.