Look to Miu Miu for a quick-fire, instantly wearable synthesis of what's going on in the mind of Miuccia Prada—plus a fantastic array of shoes. Quick on the heels of her main-line thesis on new wider and looser proportions, Prada didn't miss a beat—her Miu Miu collection was right there with the short, roomy, falling-off-the-shoulder dresses and all the big, glittery, Deco-ed up platforms a girl could want.

The cartoony ideas Prada cited for her signature label turned up as irregular starbursts popping randomly across little A-line dresses in lemon or pink, and then playfully applied to the riveting high-heel platform shoes. Also attracting attention along the way: the big, wide-set solid-black shoulder straps, from which to dangle a summer dress—another crucial seasonal detail directly transmitted from her grown-up show.

Not to say that Miu Miu was a clone. Its personality was indelibly creased, like the strange results of a botched dry-cleaning job, into its cheerfully cheap lining-fabric surfaces. Neat, inside-out pressed denims, striped shirting coats and smocks, and a trend-hitting passage of sixties dresses and coats in oversize eyelet had their own groove going on, too. Still, let's not pretend: The gorgeously mad, funky footwear was the star of this parade.