Moschino
MILAN, September 28, 2005
By Hamish Bowles
Honoring the late Franco Moschino's "classico con twist" mantra, the house's creative team continues to serve up serious, well-behaved classics that are always enlivened with a dash of humor. For spring, the Moschino girls stepped through life-size silhouette cutouts that formed the backdrop for their shenanigans in clothes that ransacked the decades. It seemed as though a ponytailed young girl had been let loose on her grandmother's lifetime horde of attic treasures—and had mixed them up with some of her own thrift store trouvailles. She might shrug a shrunken black leather biker's jacket over an oyster satin thirties camisole, or wear her heart-shape Lolita sunglasses with a stiff little sixties A-line evening dress. And how to give a punky edge to those well-behaved chiffon and black lace cocktail frocks? How about clumpy patent platform shoes, licked with fluoro color?The collection's inventive trompe l'oeil effects included full-skirt fifties garden-party dresses, their hips swagged with prints of chain-link belts, or a writhing mass of pearl necklaces scattered with the real (faux) thing. And the Moschino team not only succumbed to the season's mania for ruffles (in tiers of Coco Chanel-like sequined black tulle, or a frill peeping from the hem of a rigid dress) —it also parodied it, in the form of a plain swing skirt painted with imagined flounces.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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