Inspired by the idea of a Japanese garden, Maurizio Pecoraro showed a serene spring collection in shades of gray, ivory, and black. Jovita blossomed in a dress of hand-dyed and embroidered flowers with aged Swarovski crystals on tulle. A fan of embellishment—the more three-dimensional the better—he replicated the effect of broderie anglaise with crystals, sequins, and studs. Elsewhere, puffed and then crushed drop sleeves had the tactile appeal of overripe peonies.

Pecoraro has a special talent for coats, which he showed worn loose and open for spring. Standouts included one in a daisy-print panne velvet with linen collar and hem, as well as the flower-trimmed styles, one of airy ivory macramé. A jersey dress with velvet stripes was unexpectedly sporty, even tied with a flower belt. In this collection, as in any garden, however Zen, there were prize blooms as well as weeds, and it would have benefited from some bonsai-style editing.