September 15, 2005 New York
New life may be Schur's motivation, but her aesthetic is undeniably informed by the past: "I am inspired by the vintage idea of detail, and handiwork," she said. This was evident in pieces like a smocked lingerie top with lace inserts at the bust, and the styling, which included pretty headpieces. A dress of gold rose-patterned Solstiss lace with scalloped hem and a black silk ruffle collar nodded to the twenties, when the collection's muses, iconic model-photographer Lee Miller and Anaïs Nin, were in their primes. A light-blue pin-tucked tank paired with slim, slightly cropped black satin pants and a crinkled silk trench was very much of the moment and had a casual elegance just right for young social types, like Victoria Traina, who attended the presentation.