Naum
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 8, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
Ask the Afghan-German design team behind Naum about what really gets them going, and they'll say fabric. Waleed Khairzada and Julia Jentzsch introduced their Naum collection this spring (they have more than 20 years combined experience at various labels), and their passion for textiles was apparent. "Intelligent" material, like antibacterial and sun-protective cotton, was cut and sewn into an oxford-style shirt with a panel of pleats in the back. Lacquered cotton, kimono silk from Japan, and silvery Jacquard are other favorite Naum materials. One deceptively simple dress was a single, selvage-to-selvage piece of black cotton lace, held in place with narrow straps ribbon-tied over a white cotton slip. Khairzada and Jentzsch also like to combine these fabrics in unlikely pairings, experiment with textures, and rethink the placement of something as essential as a seam. Linen culottes were matched with filmy, see-through knits thrown over bandeau tops. A mahogany-brown cocoonlike jacket resembled tree bark. One "technical wind coat" with a shawl collar and sports-mesh-lined pockets had an elaborate drawstring construction in the back and revealed the duo's obsession with active sportswear. Combine these unusual details—handy needlework like smocking and intricate origami folds, shown with woven belts and chunky sandals (which the pair also crafted)—then set it to a world-music soundtrack, and the result is a somewhat ethnic, slightly confusing mix. The scene-stealers were the finale dresses, which somehow found a way to make silk chiffon seem casual and effortless, revealing what interesting new forms a fabric can assume when it falls into able hands. See all from Naum › Timeline
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
