Narciso Rodriguez
NEW YORK, September 13, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
Narciso Rodriguez shook things up when he moved from his longtime location at the Bryant Park tents to the Exit Art gallery on Tenth Avenue. His collection might have benefited from some subtle reworking, as well. If it isn't broken, it shouldn't be fixed. But the sight of Claire Danes in the front row wearing a lavender tank dress from his resort collection that was terribly similar to several he sent out for spring was not a great omen.There were fresh faces in the audience, thanks to the simultaneous launch of his menswear line, and an accompanying sense of anticipation. He delivered on that promise in his women's collection by dropping his skirt lengths a few inches below the knee and outfitting his models with a low wedge sandal. He's turned the page on strictly monochrome dresses, and he played with piecing shades together, like silver, violet, and brown linen stitched into one dress. Other harness-back coats and dresses looked familiar, as did strictly seamed suits, and all lacked the sex appeal that made loyal clients of Danes and Rachel Weisz in the first place.
What did look fresh were his crystal-encrusted bodices and waistbands, and a pearl-covered net shell worn with a full voile skirt. In a season that's shaping up to be about rich, hand-worked details, these pieces made one long for more, in the form of some full-length gowns equally embellished and luxe.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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