Oscar de la Renta
NEW YORK, September 12, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
After last season's Russian sojourn, Oscar de la Renta returned to his Latin roots for spring. And why shouldn't he? In the 40 years he's been in business (he celebrated the anniversary this year), regular flamenco infusions have served him well.With the Williams sisters, Eva Longoria, Candace Bushnell, and Donald and Melania Trump watching from the front row, de la Renta played to his strengths: flounces galore, toreador jackets, and a spicy palette of marigold, red, and warm neutrals, often finished off with a smattering of crystal embroidery. For day, wooden beading at the hip or contrast piping along seams gave classic silhouettes a sprightly flare, but beige linen suits and bouclé tweeds won't disappoint his faithful league of ladies.
As for eveningwear, Oscar gave the women what they want, from knee-length Audrey Hepburn black sheaths to a taffeta Empire gown painted with watercolor blossoms. For occasions that call for something in between, he did silk chiffon halter-neck dresses, with daring keyhole cutouts. He even reprised last season's T-shirt and ball skirt on Jacquetta Wheeler. Yes, there were many commercial moments, which isn't a bad thing. But at 75 looks, the show could've used some editing. All told, an Oscar collection is like a trip to the Prado. Faced with such an embarrassment of riches, it's too easy to miss the many fine things.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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