Paul Smith Women
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 20, 2005
By Sarah Mower
Did that jolly good chap Paul Smith spend his summer fitting in a bit of work while glued to the cricket on TV? Why not? That's exactly what every other red-blooded British male was up to these past months when (as the rest of the world may not have noticed) England thrashed Australia in the Ashes, for the first time in, oh, yonks. At any rate, that's one excuse for the cricket whites—big cotton cable-knit sweaters and baggy pants—that turned up in his summer collection, albeit in girlish shapes and with saucy details, like satin and lace underwear, doodled in along the way.It's nice to see Smith so relaxed designing clothes for women. A menswear designer first, it took a while for him to get into what now comes naturally: making stuff an uncomplicated bloke could fancy a good girl wearing. Thus, there was a lot of mild fantasy play going on around what a girlfriend might look like in a man's bib-front shirt, say, or perhaps a virginal, cut-work linen nightie over boxer shorts. After that, the reverie floated on to summery smocks and sprigged floral prints ideal for garden parties and, with a bit of luck, a little hanky-panky behind the bushes. It's all harmless, clean living fun, of course. Nothing much to do with the busy, thrusting thoroughfares of fashion progress either—but that's exactly what Paul Smith has dedicated himself to avoiding.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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