Phi
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 15, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
Three seasons into his tenure at Phi, designer Andreas Melbostad had developed a reputation as a bit of a goth. He had a penchant for black, structural minimalism, and last season, punky winkle pickers. This spring, he shed his darker side with an explosion of color, inspired by a red-and-fuchsia Warhol self-portrait. This bold breakthrough was a pleasant surprise that placed Phi in line with the prevailing trends of the week, and shed new light on Melbostad's strengths.The balance between hard and soft is of recurring interest to the designer, and this season, the scales tipped toward a gentler, bow-tied femininity. The collection was a study of neat bodice-defining dresses with variations on decoration (sixties-inspired floral prints and embroideries), fabrics (tuxedo wool, stretch twill, Swiss cotton organdy), and construction techniques (pleats and tiers for fullness). Wide, hard patent leather belts introduced some tough love into the collection. The contrast between Melbostad's youthful dresses and strong-shoulder jackets that featured curved back seams (a Melbostad signature in the making) was grown-up and sophisticated. Abbreviated leather motorcycle jackets, despite their intriguing color piping and "rip trim," worked better in theory than in practice.
Slim pants added to the collection's body-conscious neatness, and tailored separates with luscious bows had exaggerated proportions. Box-pleated skirts and skorts were blooming, as was a floral print designed in-house. A scoop-neck balloon jacket, puff shorts, and a bow-front halter worn by Hana Soukupova were the antithesis of goth, and designed to be noticed in a very different, fabulous kind of way.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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