Paco Rabanne
PARIS, October 3, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
So much for the sophomore slump. Paco Rabanne's Patrick Robinson dispensed of the notion entirely with a strong spring collection that paid homage to the heritage of the house, without risking its sense of the present tense. To accomplish this elusive feat, Robinson ordered 500 vintage silk kimonos from a textile dealer, sliced them up, and pieced them together with metal and plastic discs, like Rabanne once did. In the stores, no two dresses will look alike, because all the fabrics are antique. That should appeal to the kind of cool girl with funds to spare for whom he's designing, as will his slim, stovepipe pants, short tulip skirts, and sporty yet sexy racer-back tanks.Robinson evoked the house's rich history in other ways, too, starting with his silhouette. Dresses were all above the knee; some draped from Empire waists, while others were A-line. Elsewhere, he experimented with fabrics with a futuristic look. Short shorts were cut from a stiff gold mesh that looked practically bulletproof, and the black bodice of a drop-waist feather-hemmed shift rippled like water. One editor suggested that Robinson's knowing mix of the old and the new, of East and West, makes him an apt candidate to design wardrobes for the next installment of Quentin Tarantino's Kill Bill series. Until then, he's focusing on moving the house forward; otherwise, as he said backstage, it's all just costumes.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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