Preen
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 19, 2005
By Sarah Mower
It's amazing how few British designers manage to lift their eyes to the modern London horizon, and feel great about it. But there was a rare, serene sensation of nowness running through Preen's spring show. In the spiraling atrium of the new mayor's City Hall, with a sunny view of the Tower of London across the Thames, Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton sent out a cool collection of drapey, dusty pinks and pearly beiges that ramped up their reputation to another level.It looked as if the down-and-dirty, ragpicker experimentalism of this pair's early career had been put through the laundry several thousand times and emerged cleaner, softer, and infinitely more refined. What they learned from cutting up old sweatshirts and discovering a million ways to torture an old man's suit hasn't been lost. Now it's being channeled into sophisticated, lightly layered shirts, cool, cuffed shorts, and wrapped dresses, cocktail bustiers, and cummerbunds made from stretch jersey. Their deft handling of luxurious materials like washed satin marked another step forward. If there's a criticism, it's that Preen doesn't need to show so many looks. After ten minutes, they'd already won their argument for grown-up cool, hands down.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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