September 11, 2005 New York
Now, here's the fun part: Openwork embroidery decorated the bust line of their first exit, a wheat linen dress, and from there, the crewel work, brocade, and passementerie just kept coming. Puff-sleeve gauze tops with ruffled necklines looked like instant hits, as did two jackets, one in silver burlap and the other in charcoal silk, that both buttoned up the back. A chartreuse silk velvet coat was too Sgt. Pepper to be user-friendly, but in smoke with white embroidery, it's a guaranteed collector's item. Dana Lorenz's ropey necklaces worked well with the boys' delicate clothes. As for the duo's stacked-heel sandals, they were clean, modern counterpoints to all that embellishment, which could at times seem bulky. Taken separately, there were plenty of lovely pieces that Proenza Schouler's fanssome of whom looked desperately for the diaphanous finale gowns, which never arrivedwill no doubt want to claim as their new favorites.