Peter Som
NEW YORK, September 14, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
With the Ingmar Bergman film Fanny and Alexander and a summer at Fire Island as his chief inspirations, Peter Som crafted a spring collection that had both Victorian and nautical motifs. What seem like disparate themes came together to form "a crisp, clean, light feeling, but romantic too," said Som backstage. And he was right. First out was a linen dress with crewel work gracing its high neck and above-the-knee hem. That silhouette reappeared elsewhere in the show, but it worked especially well in delicate white Chantilly lace, thanks to a black slip that gave it a welcome edge.His sailor-girl jackets, culottes, and pleated skirts in twill, silk broadcloth, and seersucker were sweet through and through. Seafarer or landlubber, his clients will want to add long navy cashmere voile cardigans and vests to their wardrobes. One wide-leg sailor pant bordered on clownish, and his blue and gold brocades looked a bit too mature for the social set that lined his front row, but those were minor missteps. After a series of linen evening gowns dusted with crystals or painted with flowers in a manner that Som described as "neither overwrought nor precious," they were easy to forgive.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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