Richard Chai
NEW YORK, September 14, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
The trends are finally catching up with Richard Chai, who is a devout minimalist. His spring collection was a continuation of themes he has been developing over the past two seasons and had a uniquely appealing preppy-meets-Asian vibe.First, the Asian part: Origami tailoring techniques, which have become a Chai signature, were visible from the very start, with hopsack trousers with the waistband folded over to reveal a dot voile lining, and skirts turned up at the hem in a triangle shape to show their undersides. Chai's belts were where the two worlds, collegiate classic and Eastern, collided beautifully. While they were intricately folded (some veiled in tulle), they were also tied in big bows over topstitched marine-color trousers and pleated skirts, some worn with cropped blazers.
"Lately, clothes have been so opulent; I was aiming for something understated," Chai said backstage. He did give in to some decorative impulses. Embroidery, in the form of loosely sketched floral patterns, was scattered across skirts, pants, and on a white trench coat. Several tops had crystal necklace embroidery, as did the hem of a pleated sundress.
The strong eighties shoulder Chai favors was back again, just a little bit softer. It's not in keeping with the season's trends, but he may be onto something. While the layering was occasionally heavy, a moss-green taffeta trench and a khaki-and-cyclamen T-shirtdress that were gathered and simply tied in a knot in the front had the restraint and ease Chai was after, and accomplished.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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