Stephen Burrows
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 10, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
Thirty-odd years ago, give or take a season, Stephen Burrows was the man. He starred with Jaclyn Smith in his own fragrance ad. He had a boutique at Henri Bendel. And the likes of Grace Jones, Jerry Hall, and Pat Cleveland were gallivanting around Studio 54, no doubt, in his body-hugging designs. Cleveland is still gallivanting, this time in the front row of Burrows' show at the Robert Miller Gallery. "His clothes are like butterfly wings. I feel so free," said Cleveland, who is still keeping good company. Alongside her were Valentino's Carlos de Souza, members of the band Elefant, satirist Fran Lebowitz, Lily Atherton, curator Thelma Golden, and director Jamie Johnson, providing substantial evidence that Burrows is still, after some time out of the limelight, very much a relevant fashion presence today.For his Spring collection, Rio de Janeiro furnished the creative fodder for flirty dresses, some with keyhole necklines, wrapped or with godets in celadon, chalk white, and cerise red. Burrows has always been inspired by the way clothes move on the body, so it's no surprise that his fabric of choice is jersey. This time, his signature lettuce edging was reimagined as tendrils of seaweed, delicately cascading around necklines and down torsos. The mostly solid collection was livened up by zigzag stitches in red, as on a black minidress worn by Cameron Russell, and pastel Charlie Brown-style chevron inserts. Prints by RCA grad Ben Copperwheat of Curb Studio added spice, while crystal and bead embellishments gave the finale pieces flash.
Even before the models started their parade, it was clear that Burrows has resumed his stride. His post-seventies business was as flat as day-old Champagne (despite the inspiration his work has given a younger generation of designers, such as Marc Jacobs), but no more. All of these years later, Burrows said that he is "more open to new things and outside influences on his work." And so are we.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
A
A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
D
D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
E
Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
F
Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
G
Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
I
Imitation of Christ -
J
J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
K
Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
L
L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
M
-
N
Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
R
Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
U
Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
W
Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
Y
Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
