September 10, 2005 New York
Gabriele Strehle presented in the tents 37 looks that aimed for a "romantic minimalism," which was achieved in the muted palette (cream, khaki, peach, gold) and fabric choices, particularly lace, organza, and cotton tulle. Filmy dresses with Empire lines had a certain charm. As a whole, though, Strehle overreached with this collection, which was as unfocused as the soundtrack (one minute Antony and the Johnsons, the next Judy Collins). Menswear pieces, such as lamé trousers and pants with decorative wallet chains, were, in short, naff. Proportions were too varied: Trench-style boleros mingled with extra-long suit jackets; crystal and beaded man-style oxfords were overdone; and the almost-neon taffeta flower prints appeared to be grown in a radioactive garden. Strehle hit the mark with a layered skirt with plissé hem and a double-breasted navy organza trenchcoat that was just right for a rainy New York day.