Thakoon Panichgul showed a collection today at Bumble and Bumble that was a rare gem. It was the designer's first runway outing, and he aimed for something "modern and pretty in a twinkling kind of way." A blue diamond print he developed, and worked into a wrap dress with a crystal jet button and a scarf-tied gown that closed the show, was all of those things and more. One gold satin coat featured pieced pockets in the shape of diamonds. Subtly executed, the jewel conceit was just one of the collection's stories.

After a filmy, light-as-air opening—a white strapless multilayer organza dress with scalloped hem—Panichgul sent out a series of pieces that were as weightless as handkerchiefs. Delicately tied knots were both structural and decorative: A cardigan was slashed and joined with ties, while a blue-striped cotton dress had a cutout oval back trimmed with them. A marine theme played out in the form of a sailor top, shorts, and a twill pinafore. Metallic silks and linens in gold and silver were glowing. Patent leather Manolo Blahnik mary janes shined. And ingeniously knotted ribbon necklaces with drops of jet had an undeniable magic. Maybe the designer's early years at fashion magazines taught him how to deliver a collection that wowed editors and buyers alike, because by the end of this ethereal show, he had the audience right where he wanted them, "on cloud nine."