September 08, 2005 New York
With their typical sweetened cynicism, the show opened with a white tennis dress subverted with vibrant zipperssome functional, others notwhich, along with buckles, were a recurring motif. That summer Kennebunk favorite, seersucker, was toughened up and turned into a motorcycle jacket, and its slightly brawny vibe was present throughout (particularly with the creepersreworked with flat, pointy soleswhich were big crowd-pleasers). A bibbed tuxedo-style shirtdress with a dropped hem was a nod to the Gatsby era and was equal parts masculine and feminine. These hard/soft, greaser/soc contrasts were most successful in the first half of the show. Later, the African and ribbon-latticed dresses seemed overly decorative and diverted from Aoki and Pham's real strength: seditious versions of country club classics.