Undercover
PARIS, October 3, 2005
By Sarah Mower
In a dark space lit by carved white votive candles, girls clothed in chopped-up rock T-shirts were wandering around in tall, draped medieval headdresses, declaring allegiance to someone called Klaus and the Amazing Tale of Zamiang. Had the audience in attendance stumbled unwittingly into the bunker-club ritual of some obscure underground cult?The answer was yes and no. Tokyo hipster designer Jun Takahashi has inspired such a following that he is something of a cult leader. But afterward, to put enquirers out of their misery of guessing, he admitted he'd made it all up.
"I was imagining progressive-rock German bands," he said, which explained the gothic headdresses and the belts and headpieces made of chains. It also cleared up the mystery of those unidentifiable washed-out photos of album covers and the smashed-up vinyl singles used like punk paillettes on a T-shirtdress.
Takahashi said that his extended riff on T-shirts was about "taking something simple and limited, and seeing what you can do with it." He sliced them up and pieced them into loose A-line dresses, turned them upside down to make dangly hip-wrapped skirts, then snipped off dozens of neck ribs and looped them onto tunics. In the light of day, none of it was too spookily out-there. But it was quite enough to keep his fashion believers kneeling at his feet.
see all designers ›
Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
-
A
A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
D
D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
E
Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
F
Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
G
Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
I
Imitation of Christ -
J
J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
K
Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
L
L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
M
-
N
Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
R
Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
U
Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
W
Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
Y
Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
