October 04, 2005 Paris
That's not to say things were subdued. Quiet, after all, was never Ungaro's style. Ruffles, bustiers, and poufy shapes abounded. And though Darré's palette included soft, silvery pastels, it was teal, saffron, and fuchsia that predominated, sometimes in abstract florals and geometric prints. He opened with bare halter shapes and finished with even-sparer bras and girdles, interspersed with brief cuffed shorts. It's not clear where the majority of these clothes would be appropriate, beyond the beaches and nightclubs of St. Bart's.
The real trouble is that the eighties are simply not where fashion's at. The audience would have welcomed a more personal statement from Darré, who has had successes at both Moschino and Fendi. But it's not clear that he's the man to make Ungaro's aesthetic relevant for today.