One of the last looks in Veronique Branquinho's spring show exemplified the kind of effortless, understated chic for which the label has always stood—a dark charcoal dress that fell almost trapeze-like from the bust to the knees, with deep pleats down one side of the body. Trenchcoats and sheaths with built-in capes looked similarly cool, especially when paired with bicep-grazing black leather gloves: It was easy to imagine the hipper members of the audience thinking to themselves, "Good idea."

There weren't a lot of those to go around, though. Sweatshirt-gray jerseys and fine-gauge sweaters worn with pencil skirts were pretty enough, but hardly earthshaking, and there were too many jumpsuits with elasticized waists. The smartly tailored tuxedo pants and smoking jackets that closed the show were winners, but not so the mint-color strapless leotards and leggings Branquinho showed with the majority of the collection. They looked like what they were: styling gimmicks whipped up to distract from a dearth of strong concepts.