VPL
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 15, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
Jessica Simpson in her Daisy Duke attire would have fit right in at Victoria Bartlett's Hands on a Hard Body show. Held at the Audi showroom on Park Avenue, the set consisted of a rotating platform, four lingerie-clad models drinking beer (from the can) with male escorts, and a shiny red sports car. It was a vignette straight out of a gimmicky car show, and somehow, it worked. Bartlett, whose line has evolved from lingerie to casual/active sportswear, showed a mature collection with inspired details.Baggy skorts made of sports mesh in huge hip-hop proportions were paired with "slip bras." Miniskirts were contoured and color-blocked or trimmed with diaphanous metallic silk. Mesh gussets on tanks and tees "represent perspiration," said the designer, who was playing with the idea of fitness and "the quest for body perfection." A "nude mega tie hoody" was a silky coat for a girl on the go from the gym to… who knows where. As usual, the accessories were a hit. Bartlett made Airtex sandals and sock boots for Report. Brian Crumley provided terrycloth accessories, including unusual neckpieces that sat like triangles at the nape and were connected by a chain in front. Alyssa Norton's woven chain-and-fabric sweatbands, and Josh Hickey's ostrich egg necklaces finished the show, and had an unusual sex appeal.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
