New York City might have lost its bid for the Olympics, but that didn't stop Y-3, the fashion/active-sportswear fusion created by Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas, from decamping from Paris to show here. For their first show stateside, they went for the money shot, presenting the collection in an elaborate production at 55 Wall Street. Black-and-orange Y-3 flags floated above the building's columned facade. Inside, white carpets led to a three-lane, Adidas-striped runway. After keeping the audience waiting for an hour, a giant James Bond-style vault at the end of the runway was opened by two masked men, releasing teams of models from the safe behind it.
Black and white separates opened the show, but there wasn't a cult favorite Y-3 sneaker in sight. The models wore clunky wedges with striped heels instead. Logo stripes, which were the main conceit of the show, turned up in orange-on-denim separates and in crystals on tuxedo-style pants worn by Caroline Winberg. More crystals (a favorite this season) followed, on glittering striped halters that earned the descriptive "bling," and embellished soccer balls were entirely impractical but eye-catching.
Y-3 has a graphic story each season. This time, it was currency, which may explain the Wall Street location and the Bonfire of the Vanities vibe. A V-neck money-print dress fitted under the bust had a full, flowy skirt. Accessories, including whistles, beaded chains, rolling luggage, and sequined scarves were featured prominently.
The sportiest looks had the strongest impact, like a white bathing suit with black stripes at the seams, logo leggings, and a long striped skirt on Claudia Marikula. Y-3 is clearly geared up and ready to play. On your mark, get set, go.
Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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