Y-3
NEW YORK, September 13, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
New York City might have lost its bid for the Olympics, but that didn't stop Y-3, the fashion/active-sportswear fusion created by Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas, from decamping from Paris to show here. For their first show stateside, they went for the money shot, presenting the collection in an elaborate production at 55 Wall Street. Black-and-orange Y-3 flags floated above the building's columned facade. Inside, white carpets led to a three-lane, Adidas-striped runway. After keeping the audience waiting for an hour, a giant James Bond-style vault at the end of the runway was opened by two masked men, releasing teams of models from the safe behind it.Black and white separates opened the show, but there wasn't a cult favorite Y-3 sneaker in sight. The models wore clunky wedges with striped heels instead. Logo stripes, which were the main conceit of the show, turned up in orange-on-denim separates and in crystals on tuxedo-style pants worn by Caroline Winberg. More crystals (a favorite this season) followed, on glittering striped halters that earned the descriptive "bling," and embellished soccer balls were entirely impractical but eye-catching.
Y-3 has a graphic story each season. This time, it was currency, which may explain the Wall Street location and the Bonfire of the Vanities vibe. A V-neck money-print dress fitted under the bust had a full, flowy skirt. Accessories, including whistles, beaded chains, rolling luggage, and sequined scarves were featured prominently.
The sportiest looks had the strongest impact, like a white bathing suit with black stripes at the seams, logo leggings, and a long striped skirt on Claudia Marikula. Y-3 is clearly geared up and ready to play. On your mark, get set, go.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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