The stated influences for Alessandro dell'Acqua's Spring collection were punk and military. The latter could be easily traced in details such as the epaulets on a seersucker shirt, the camouflage print on high-tops, and the silver chevrons pinned to the sleeve of a big olive-drab parka. The punk presence, on the other hand, was less obvious (pogo-friendly soundtrack notwithstanding).

Instead, a rather camp seam of glam rock ran through the clothes. A tiger peered out from T-shirts (it was printed on a Speedo too). Skinny voile-like blouses also featured animal prints. And narrow trousers were rolled up over shiny silver high-tops, affording a little Ziggy Stardust flava. Given that we saw a lot of that kind of thing during the last round of shows, its reappearance here didn't feel particularly fresh. More intriguing were the suggestions of volume. The bellows pockets on a trim, tan leather jacket, the full cut of the trousers on a white cotton-canvas suit—these were the more successful forays in dell'Acqua's spring campaign.