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Alessandro Dell'Acqua

MILAN, June 28, 2006
By Tim Blanks
The stated influences for Alessandro dell'Acqua's Spring collection were punk and military. The latter could be easily traced in details such as the epaulets on a seersucker shirt, the camouflage print on high-tops, and the silver chevrons pinned to the sleeve of a big olive-drab parka. The punk presence, on the other hand, was less obvious (pogo-friendly soundtrack notwithstanding).

Instead, a rather camp seam of glam rock ran through the clothes. A tiger peered out from T-shirts (it was printed on a Speedo too). Skinny voile-like blouses also featured animal prints. And narrow trousers were rolled up over shiny silver high-tops, affording a little Ziggy Stardust flava. Given that we saw a lot of that kind of thing during the last round of shows, its reappearance here didn't feel particularly fresh. More intriguing were the suggestions of volume. The bellows pockets on a trim, tan leather jacket, the full cut of the trousers on a white cotton-canvas suit—these were the more successful forays in dell'Acqua's spring campaign.

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