July 05, 2006 Paris
In doing so, Schönberger looked back unavoidably to the 1950's, the time of the original Beats, for inspiration. One of the most striking items was an A-line cape jacket, like something he remembered his grandfather wearing. The breeches were also a fifties affectation. And the shawl-collared jacket and brothel creepers recalled the formal style of the original Teddy boys. In fact, formality prevailed throughout the collection, in deep-pleated pants paired with a ruffled shirt, a glazed-cotton tux, or a full-cut suit with the silvery sheen that has established itself as the most popular surface treatment for spring 2007.
Schönberger placed a strong emphasis on construction, pleating and folding his fabrics. Proportion was important, too. Trousers were either narrow and cuffed, or as generous as sailor pants, with a button-down waist. The precision and polish of the clothes suggested a talent that the fashion giants ought to bear in mind, should they start playing musical chairs with their designers again.