Just like last season, Ozwald Boateng's catwalk was so long that the models had no choice but to get a move on. Still, their haste seemed unnatural. Perhaps they sensed that some of the more curious outfits that Boateng sent out in this mixed collection weren't worth lingering over. The black-and-white palette and the prevailing air of formality—not to mention the trumpets some of the guys were carrying—suggested that the spiffiness of jazz legends might be a reference point for the clothes. But it's doubtful that Charlie Parker would ever have sported anything like the skimpy black bathing suit and tuxedo-vest combo.

A silvery, glazed linen suit had a right-for-now sheen, but it was oddly accessorized with a tight little bow tie. In fact, the accessories generally fought the collection. And proportions weren't ideal either: A three-piece linen suit was too tight; a knit polo had sleeves all the way to the elbow. And yet there were occasional glimmers of the right stuff, as in the effortlessly cool two-pleat checked pants that wouldn't have looked out of place on Gary Cooper. Perhaps Ozwald should just relax a little.